Lashology
Welcome to Lashology — This page is here to help you understand your natural lashes, how extensions actually work, what to expect during your appointment, and how to keep your lashes healthy and lasting beautifully.
I’m not the kind of lash artist who just says “see you next time.” I want my clients to know their lashes — how they grow, what affects retention, and why proper care matters. If you’re investing in your lashes, you should understand how to take care of them and get the best results possible. This page is here to make that easy, clear, and (hopefully) a little fun to read.
Every single lash you have grows, rests, and falls out on its own schedule – and that’s totally normal! Each lash is in a different stage of growth, which is why you lose a few every day and never go completely “lash bald.” Here’s a quick breakdown of what’s happening behind the scenes:
Natural Lash Growth Cycle
Anagen Phase (Growth Phase)
This is the “growing” stage. Your natural lash is still attached to the follicle’s blood supply and getting longer & stronger.
Lasts about 30–45 days.
Around 40% of your upper lashes are in this phase at any time.
When I lash you, I carefully attach extensions to strong lashes in this stage so they can support the weight beautifully.
Catagen Phase (Transition Phase)
This is the short phase where the last stops growing and starts to detach from its blood supply.
Lasts about 2–3 weeks.
The follicle begins to shrink, making these lashes more fragile.
Lashes in this stage are usually avoided during application to help reduce premature loss, or the “ping” feeling during lashing in which you can even feel.
Telogen Phase (Resting Phase)
This is the “chill” stage. Your lash is fully grown and resting while a new baby lash begins growing underneath.
Lasts about 100 days before shedding naturally.
Once this lash falls out, a fresh one pops right up to take its place.
This is why you shed 3–5 lashes per day – your whole body is simply making room for new growth.
Understanding your lash cycle helps you realize that shedding is natural and healthy. When old lashes fall out, it means new growth is coming in! Lash extensions simply follow this same rhythm — so keeping up with your fills helps maintain that seamless, full look through every phase of your natural lash cycle.
Why it Matters
During the colder months, you may notice your lashes shedding a little more than usual — and that’s completely normal! Just like animals, our bodies naturally shed older hair to make room for new, thicker growth that helps regulate your body temperature.
Here in Oklahoma, the weather is constantly changing — up, down, warm one day and freezing the next — so your body doesn’t always know what to do. This back-and-forth can cause extra lash shedding from October through March. It’s nothing to worry about, but it may affect your lash fullness and how often you need fills.
Sometimes shedding season means you’ll need to come in a little sooner or book a longer fill to maintain your fullness.
Shedding Season
October - March
Lash extensions are individual fibers that I carefully attach to each of your natural lashes — one by one — using professional-grade adhesive to secure it in place. Every lash I place grows and sheds naturally with your own lash cycle.
What Are Lash Extensions?
Here’s the traditional way lash artists are taught to create each set. I’ve learned to do things a little differently (and healthier!) — you’ll see what I mean in the next section.
The Differences Between Each Set
Classic Set (Traditional Method)
Definition: A Classic Set is where a single lash extension is applied to one natural lash — one by one — and repeated throughout the lash line.
Application: Whereas the traditional lash artist uses a lash extension with a 0.15 mm diameter (or heavier) for Classic Sets, this number refers to the weight or thickness of the extension — not the length. Each extension is placed directly onto one natural lash, creating a defined and lengthened look.
Result: This technique achieves the look of mascara, only giving you shape and length.
Hybrid Set (Traditional Method)
Definition: A Hybrid Set is where a single lash extension is applied to one natural lash, then the lash next to that one receives a fan — a group of multiple lightweight extensions fanned out and attached to a single natural lash. This pattern continues throughout the lash line in a single, fan, single, fan sequence. The result is a balanced mix of classic definition and volume fluff.
Application: The traditional lash artist uses a lash extension with a 0.07 mm diameter (or heavier) for Hybrid Sets. This number refers to the weight or thickness of the extension — not the length.
Result: This technique achieves a little more oomph than what a Classic Set gives you, creating shape, length, and density.
Volume Set (Traditional Method)
Definition: A Volume Set is created using fans throughout the entire lash line — no singles. Each fan is made up of multiple lightweight extensions, typically up to 7 extensions per fan, and applied to one natural lash.
Application: The traditional lash artist uses a lash extension with a 0.05 mm diameter (or heavier) for Volume Sets. This number refers to the weight or thickness of the extension — not the length.
Result: This technique achieves a full, dense look that enhances volume while keeping the lashes soft and lightweight.
Mega Volume Set (Traditional Method)
Definition: A Mega Volume Set is created using only fans throughout the entire lash line — no singles. Each fan can contain up to 20 ultra-fine extensions, all attached to one natural lash. This method achieves the most dramatic fullness possible, giving a dense, bold, and deeply black lash line.
Application: The traditional lash artist uses a 0.03 mm diameter lash extension for Mega Volume Sets — no heavier, no lighter. This number refers to the weight or thickness of the extension — not the length.
Result: This technique achieves the fullest, most dramatic look possible — maximum shape, length, and volume.
This is where I’ve learned to do things a little differently (and healthier!)
Most lash artists follow the traditional method, where each set type (Classic, Hybrid, Volume, and Mega Volume) uses a specific extension weight — typically 0.15, 0.07, 0.05, or 0.03 mm in diameter. Those numbers refer to the thickness or weight of the lash — not the length.
But here’s where my secret recipe comes in:
I use 0.03 mm diameter extensions for every single set — Classic, Hybrid, Volume, and Mega Volume.
I started noticing that my Mega Volume sets (which use 0.03 mm lashes) had phenomenal retention and felt unbelievably soft — as fine as newborn baby hair. So, I thought: Why not mimic the appearance of Classic, Hybrid, and Volume using the same lightweight supply?
And it worked — better than I could have imagined. My clients immediately noticed that their lashes looked more natural, lasted longer, and felt weightless. They told me never to go back — and I didn’t.
Here’s why it’s different:
When I isolate a natural lash, I don’t just “slap on” the same weight across the entire lash line. I look at each natural lash individually and decide how much it can safely hold. For example, one natural lash might only hold three of those tiny 0.03 fibers, while another might hold five — so I build each lash accordingly.
That means every single lash is customized to your natural lash strength — giving you the look of Classic, Hybrid, Volume, or Mega Volume, but with healthier application, softer texture, better retention, and a truly customized result.
By doing this, you can rest assured that you’re not leaving with the same exact look the person before you had. It’s real, genuine customization here — I’m not half-assing my job and sending you on your way. You’re going to get something completely unique, because not everybody has the same eye shape, natural lash length, or lash density. So no two sets I do ever look identical.
You can also come in and show me a picture of a Volume set, and because of how I do things, if you have lots of natural lashes, I’ll be honest enough to tell you that you could achieve that same Volume look with a Hybrid or even a Classic set — saving you money and getting you the same full, beautiful result. My clients love that honesty and transparency.
By using 0.03 mm extensions and tailoring each lash individually, I’m able to safely work with every lash in its own growth phase — baby, teenager, and adult (as explained in the lash growth cycle section above). Traditional methods often apply the same weight across all lashes — even when some of those tiny baby lashes shouldn’t be carrying that much weight. My technique ensures every lash gets exactly what it can safely hold, protecting your natural lashes while keeping your set full, soft, and long-lasting.
My Secret Recipe
When you arrive, we’ll go over your goals, map out your desired look, and I’ll prep your lashes with a deep cleanse — removing any oils, dirt, or leftover makeup from yesterday. Which should be fully removed before coming in- to avoid a cleaning fee.
After that, I’ll place soft silicone pads under your lower lashes and gently tape them down to keep them secure while I work. Then, you’ll close your eyes for the remainder of your appointment — this keeps your eyes safe and allows me to work with precision.
Your eyes will stay closed for most of your service. That means no texting, no answering calls, and definitely no trying to peek — as tempting as it might be! Opening your eyes during the service can cause adhesive fumes to escape into the eye, which leads to burning and watering. When that happens, I have to stop and fix it — and watery eyes plus fresh glue don’t mix well. Moisture interferes with the adhesive’s bond, which can affect retention and how long your extensions last.
Most clients fall asleep during their appointment (some even snore — and that’s okay!). You can relax, nap, or listen to whatever’s playing on the TV.
We can absolutely talk, but chatting too much can make your eyes flutter or your head shift, which slows down my work. A little conversation here and there is totally fine, but quiet sessions are always appreciated — it helps me stay focused so you leave with the set you really want.
What to Expect During Your Appointment
I don’t use cookie-cutter lash maps. Each design is built specifically for your eye shape, lash pattern, and natural growth direction. Every client is different — and every set should be, too.
You’ll tell me whether you want your eyes to look more open, inviting, and welcoming, or if you prefer a red-carpet scoop look that lifts and elongates the outer corners. You can also choose a staggered style, which gives a sassy yet soft, natural look — it’s a client favorite and one of mine, too.
I also focus heavily on making sure each eye is relatively symmetrical and balanced. That means one eye won’t be longer in one area while the other is perfectly uniform. Instead, I create symmetry that looks natural — full and even, but not overly “matchy.”
The only exception to this is if you request a purposely messy or textured set — that’s the one time this rule doesn’t apply. Otherwise, balance and harmony are always my goal so your lashes enhance your features beautifully and naturally.
Lash Mapping & Customization
Let’s talk science for a second — because knowing what’s in lash glue (and how it behaves) helps you understand why some people experience sensitivities or reactions.
Lash adhesives are made with cyanoacrylate, the main ingredient that gives lash glue its fast-drying, long-lasting bond. Inside the bottle, hydroquinone acts as a stabilizer — keeping the glue from curing too early.
Over time, or when glue is exposed to air, humidity, and heat, the hydroquinone breaks down. When that happens, a new compound called formaldehyde can form — and formaldehyde is a known irritant and allergen. This doesn’t mean lash glue is “full of formaldehyde” when fresh — but rather that old or poorly stored glue can begin to create it, which is why I’m extremely careful about shelf life and storage.
Allergic Reactions vs. Irritations
It’s important to know the difference between a true allergic reaction and a temporary irritation:
Allergic Reaction (Contact Dermatitis):
This happens when your immune system reacts to an allergen — most commonly cyanoacrylate. Repeated exposure over time can make the immune system more sensitive, and symptoms can worsen with each exposure.
Common signs: swelling and puffiness around the eyes, redness, intense itching, and sometimes a gooey discharge that may appear up to 48 hours later.
Irritation:
This is not an immune response, but rather a reaction to external factors — like fumes, expired glue, or improper aftercare.
Common signs: mild redness, slight burning or stinging during or right after application, watery eyes, or temporary discomfort
How I Prevent and Handle Reactions
In my studio, lash health and safety always come first. Here’s what I do to protect your eyes and skin:
I always use fresh adhesive. Lash glue has a short shelf life — usually 1–3 months after opening — and I replace mine well before it expires.
I store glue properly. It’s kept in a cool, airtight container with silica packs to protect it from air, moisture, and sunlight.
I use low-fume products. These help reduce irritation for clients with mild sensitivities to fumes.
If a client experiences a true allergy, I recommend safe removal of extensions and referral to a doctor for proper treatment — because allergic reactions can worsen with repeated exposure.
Why This Matters
All of this information isn’t meant to scare you — it’s meant to empower you. When you know what’s happening on a chemical level, you can understand why your lash artist’s techniques, hygiene, and product choices matter so much.
Your comfort, safety, and confidence are always my top priorities.
Lash Adhesive & Allergic Reactions Explained
Before & After Appointments
Before Your Appointment
Please come in with clean lashes – free of makeup, mascara, and oils.
This allows your extensions to last longer and keeps your natural lashes healthy.
Why? Any leftover makeup, mascara, or oils create a barrier between your natural lashes and the adhesive. When the glue can’t bond properly, your extensions won’t hold as long – and buildup can also cause irritation, clumping, or poor retention. Starting with clean lashes means a stronger bond, longer wear, and healthier natural lashes underneath.
Avoid energy drinks before your appointment.
Why? Energy drinks do exactly what they’re meant to – give your body energy. But that boost also makes your eyes flutter and twitch, which makes it really difficult at times for me to safely and precisely apply the extensions. Opt for water or something calming before your appointment so your eyes can fully relax and you can enjoy a smoother, more comfortable lash session.
Silence your phone and limit distractions.
Why? Your lash appointment is time for precision, focus, and relaxation. Constant phone calls, texts, or notifications make it hard for me to do my job safely and efficiently. Each time I pause to assist you in answering calls or you open your eyes to answer, it slows down the process and affects your results. Please silence it and let family and friends know you’ll be unavailable for the duration. I’m here to do your lashes – not manage your phone for you.
After Your Appointment
Avoid water, steam, or sweat for the first 24 hours.
Why? The adhesive needs time to fully cure inside your lash cuticle. Moisture too soon can interrupt that curing process, causing premature shedding and poor retention.
Avoid oil-based products and picking or pulling at your lashes.
Why? Oils break down lash adhesive by seeping into the tiny cracks in the glue and softening it – which causes extensions to slide right off the natural lash. And picking? You just paid for your lashes, so don’t undo your investment. Picking or pulling can also remove your natural lashes, leaving bald spots or uneven growth.
Wash your lashes every single day with professional lash shampoo.
Why? Your skin naturally produces oils daily, and those oils collect near the lash line – right where the adhesive is. If left unwashed, those oils loosen the bond over time. Washing daily keeps the base line clean, the bond strong, and prevents buildup that can cause poor retention or irritation. And don’t worry – cleaning won’t make them fall out! You naturally shed 3–5 lashes per day, so it’s better to lose what’s ready to go than to let buildup make retention worse. When clients baby their lashes too much, it shows. If you come in with buildup, I have to deal with it first – which usually means more extensions fall off during the process and your fill may take longer and cost more.
Wash immediately after crying or swimming in saltwater.
Why? The salt in our tears and saltwater pools or the ocean itself dries out the adhesive, making it brittle so extensions pop right off your lash. As soon as you’re done with a pool day, ocean swim, or a good cry – give your lashes a gentle cleanse with lash shampoo.
Stay away from oils – period.
Why? Oil is the #1 enemy of lash adhesive. It softens the glue and causes extensions to slide right off the natural lash. The less oils around your lashes, the longer your retention.
Less Oils = Longer Lasting Lashes.
Lash Myth #1:
Lash Extensions Make Your Natural Lashes Fall Out
No, they don’t — and by now, you already know that from the Lash Growth Cycle section above!
If lash extensions are applied correctly, they will not make your lashes fall out. But heavy lashing or poor lashing — whether the artist lacks education, doesn’t isolate properly, or simply doesn’t care — can cause serious and even permanent damage.
When an artist repeatedly applies lashes that are too heavy for your natural lash to hold, it causes constant strain. Over time, your natural lashes become shorter, thinner, and more sparse, and gaps can form along the lash line. If this continues, you can eventually experience permanent lash loss in those areas.
When done correctly, though? Your natural lashes will remain healthy and strong through every single set and fill. That’s why my technique focuses on custom lash weight per natural lash — so each lash is safely supported, never overloaded.
So… do you need a better reason to come see me?
Lash Myth #2:
You Can’t Get Your Lashes Wet
You can — and whoever started that myth needs to stop sharing it. I’ve had clients walk in telling me their previous lash artist sold them swimming goggles for the shower so their lashes wouldn’t get wet. That’s straight-up bogus.
If you’re being told you must never get your lashes wet, you’re working with someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing, plain and simple.
The Real Risk: Demodex Mites & Blepharitis
Not washing your lashes daily gives oil, dirt, and debris a chance to build up at the base of your extensions and natural lashes. That build-up creates an ideal environment for microscopic mites, specifically Demodex mites, which can lead to a condition called Blepharitis (blef-uh-RYE-tus) — inflammation of the eyelid margins.
Blepharitis is inflammation of the eyelids caused by overgrowth of oil glands and mites at the base of your lashes.
Too much oil at the lash base softens the adhesive bond and allows your extensions to slide right off the natural lashes — when oil, water, and lash glue mix too soon, your retention suffers.
So yes — you can get your lashes wet once they’ve had time to cure, but you must wash them every day. No goggles required. Just a good lash-safe cleanser and clean habits.
Lash Myths- Busted
Retention isn’t just about glue — it’s about aftercare. Things like your environment, your skincare, and even how you sleep can completely change how long your lashes last.
Shedding season also plays a massive part in your “retention.” A lot of people think they have bad retention, but really, they just experienced a natural shed and now have brand new baby lashes growing in.
Here’s what can affect your retention:
Oil-based products weaken the adhesive bond, causing your extensions to slip right off.
Sleeping on your face or using cotton pillowcases can pull out your extensions, especially if you wear a cat-eye style. Those longer outer-corner lashes tend to rub against your pillow at night — the real culprit (or “perpetrator”) of missing lashes while you sleep.
Skipping your cleanses allows oil and buildup to collect at the lash line, which leads to premature shedding and poor retention.
Not brushing your lashes daily can cause extensions to tangle as they grow out. If you skip brushing one day, they can cross over or stick together slightly, and when you go to brush them later, you risk pulling some out accidentally.
If you’re investing the time and money to get lash extensions, make sure you’re protecting that investment with good aftercare. Wash them daily, brush them gently, and keep oils away. Your lashes (and your wallet) will thank you.
What Affects Your Lash Retention
My fill schedule is based on both time and the condition of your lashes when you arrive. This system keeps things fair and consistent while also accounting for how well your lashes have been maintained between visits.
Let's say you get a Full Set on a Wednesday:
Any day the following week (Monday through Friday) is considered your Mini Fill window (7-9). This does not include Saturdays.
The next Monday through Friday after that is your 2 week fill window.
The next Monday through Friday after that is your 3 week fill window.
Anything beyond that - even if your lashes still look beautiful and full - considered a Full Set.
You do not have to come in on the exact day of the week you originally got them done - as long as your appointment falls within that week's window, it still counts as that fill.
However, condition still matters. If you come in for a 2 week fill but have lost more lashes than what's typical for that time frame - usually more than 50- 60% - it will be bumped up to a 3 week fill. This ensures you're booked for proper amount of time and your lashes get the detailed attention they need.
How I Calculate My Fills
Fills & Maintenance
To maintain fullness and lash health
• Mini Fill: 7–9 days after your last fill
• 2 Week Fill: Standard maintenance appointment
• 3 Week Fill: Extended maintenance — requires extra time and detail work
• After 3+ weeks: It’s considered a full set, regardless if it looks like a 2 or 3 week fill
Mini Fill (7–9 days)
Perfect for clients who love a constantly fresh, full look or have an upcoming event. Mini Fills are for light touch-ups only — tiny fixes, small gaps, or a quick refresh between regular fills. This appointment keeps your lashes in top shape before too much shedding occurs, preventing the “in-between” look.
2 Week Fill (Recommended)
This is the most common and recommended fill for maintaining full, healthy lashes. During this service, I remove grown-out lashes, replace them, take off any twisted lashes, and refill any missing areas. Your lashes naturally shed and grow at different rates. Around 60–50% of your extensions have typically shed or grown out by the 2 Week mark. This keeps your set balanced and ensures strong, even retentions without needing a full set.
3 Week Fill (Heavy Maintenance)
For clients with phenomenal retention or those stretching between fills. This appointment takes more time and involves deeper cleanup and more replacements. I’ll remove many grown-out extensions, clean off any excess shedding, and rebuild your fullness from the base up. By this point, most clients have lost 60–70% or more of their original extensions. It’s much more detailed work to restore symmetry and fullness.
After 3 Weeks = Full Set
If it’s been more than 3 weeks, even if you have 50% or more lashes, it will be booked and priced as a full set. A lot of the time, there isn’t enough foundation left to fill — we’re starting fresh.